Complete guide to skin exfoliation for a polished complexion

Introduction

Exfoliation is the secret code in skincare. It is the last piece that brings together, all your efforts towards achieving great skin! If you've always wondered how to incorporate exfoliation into your skincare regimen, you've come to the right place. In this article, we'll explore what exfoliation means, it's benefits, types and safety considerations. So hang in there. You're in for a very informative ride! 

What is exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the mechanical or chemical process of sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal the younger, brighter looking skin underneath. Our bodies naturally shed off old skin cells every 30 days. But these old skin cells don't perfectly shed off at the same time, thus giving our skin that dull uneven appearance, The unshed skin cells also cause hyperpigmentation, acne and blackheads.

Benefits of exfoliation

There are so many benefits of regularly exfoliating your skin. These include the following:

1. Exfoliating helps oils, lotions and serums penetrate the skin better, making them more effective.
2. It gives the skin a smoother, brighter, and more even appearance.
3. It reduces the appearance of enlarged pores and eliminates blackheads.
4. Mechanical exfoliation encourages blood circulation and detoxification.
5. It encourages cell turnover.
6. It reduces the appearance of scars.
7. It reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, thus slowing down the process of aging.
8. It unclogs pores and prevents skin breakouts.

Types of exfoliation

Skin exfoliation is broadly divided into two categories; mechanical and chemical exfoliation. These shall be explored one after the other.

1. Mechanical Exfoliation: 

Mechanical exfoliation involves using devices such as a body scrub, sponge or a brush to slough off dead skin cells. Let's talk about these devices, shall we?

• BODY SCRUBS

These are tiny grains that can be made from sugar, salt, coffee, crushed seeds or oats. Body scrubs are very effective at sloughing off dead skin cells. They're mostly sold at retail physical and online stores, but they can very easily be made at home. Below are some easy DIY scrub recipes that you can try out.

a.  Sugar Scrub:

Sugar scrubs are really a favourite among many people because they are a bit gentler than other kinds of scrubs and not as abrasive. Also, sugar contains glycolic acid, which further aids the exfoliation process. Here's a simple sugar scrub recipe for you:

Ingredients

1 cup sugar

¼ cup olive oil, coconut oil, almond oil or jojoba oil

3 drops of your favorite essential oil (optional) for added fragrance.

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. If you find the mixture too runny, you may add some more sugar. If on the other hand, you find it too thick, add some more oil. You may also add other ingredients that provide additional skin benefits such as honey, aloe vera, etc.

b.   Salt Scrub:

Salt scrubs have antimicrobial benefits that can help the skin. However, salt can be too harsh and abrasive on the skin, especially if you have sensitive skin. Also if you have cuts or abrasions on your skin, it's best to avoid using a salt scrub as it will sting. Below is a recipe for a simple DIY salt scrub:

Ingredients

½ cup salt

½ cup olive, coconut or almond oil

3 drops of your your preferred essential oil.

Mix all ingredients together. You may have to add more salt more oil, depending on which is needed, to get the consistency right.

c.   Coffee Scrub

Coffee scrubs offer many benefits for the skin. Coffee beans contain chlorogenic and hydrocinnamic acids which protect the body from free radicals and reduce inflammation. They also have diuretic properties, which means massaging them into the skin helps to remove fluids and toxins from areas in the body where they may be retained. Below is an effective coffee scrub recipe:

Ingredients

½ cup fresh coffee grounds

1 cup olive, almond, or coconut oil

3 drops of essential oil for fragrance

d.  Oatmeal and Almond Scrub

Oatmeal is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe itchy skin. When it is finely ground and combined with finely crushed seeds, it makes for a really effective skin exfoliant. Here's a simple DIY oatmeal and almond scrub recipe:

Ingredients

1 cup almond meal

½ cup whole milk

2 cups finely ground oatmeal

3 drops of essential oil for fragrance

Mix all dry ingredients thoroughly in a bowl. Then add some tablespoonfuls of whole milk and stir until you have the consistency of a paste. 

How to use Body Scrubs

This applies to all scrubs mentioned above. To use your body scrub, step into the shower and wet your skin for about two minutes. This will make the skin damp and soft to work with. Then rub the scrub on your skin, working in a firm but gentle circular motion. Continue to work your way through until you have covered every inch of your skin, paying special attention to rougher areas like your elbows and knees. Afterwards, rinse off with warm or cold water. Gently pat your skin dry and follow up immediately with a good hydrating moisturizer.

Safety tips on Using Scrubs

For best results, scrubs can be used twice a week. However, if you have sensitive skin, it's best to stick to once a week. If you notice inflammation, redness or excessive itching after using a scrub, it may be too harsh for your skin. It is advisable to choose a recipe that agrees with your skin or opt for chemical exfoliation ( more on that in a bit). Acne- prone skin will also benefit more from chemical exfoliation. Avoid exfoliating if you have abrasions, open cuts or sun burn on your skin. 

• EXFOLIATING SPONGES

An exfoliating sponge is an easy and very effective way to exfoliate. It also helps stimulate blood circulation and reduces the appearance of cellulite. Exfoliating sponges are made from natural fibre or synthetic material. Either can be used to achieve the same result. 

How to Use Exfoliating Sponges

Run water over your skin for a few minutes to get it damp and soft . Next, lather up your sponge with soap or your favourite body wash and work your way over your body, rubbing in a firm circular motion. Pay more attention to drier areas like your elbows and knees. Also use gentler motions on your face to avoid irritation. Follow up with a good hydrating moisturizer. 

Safety Tips on Using Exfoliating Sponges 

1. Don't exfoliate if you have an open wound or cut.

2. Don't rub your skin too aggressively to avoid irritation.

3. If inflammation occurs after exfoliating with a sponge, it's best to explore other exfoliation methods. 

2.  Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the skin using acids. The two main categories of acids used for exfoliation are AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids). 

ALL ABOUT ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water-soluble Hydroxy acids. They are mild exfoliants which can make the skin softer and smoother, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The two main AHAs people use for exfoliation are glycolic acid ( naturally found in sugar cane) and lactic acid (naturally found in milk). Other AHAs include tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid and mandelic acid. 

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid works as a chemical exfoliant by dissolving the outermost layer of skin cells. It is gentler than mechanical exfoliants because it does not require scrubbing of the skin. Glycolic acid is also a humectant because it binds water molecules to the skin. Because of the low molecular weight of glycolic acid, it can easily penetrate the skin and is thus very effective as a skincare product.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is also an alpha hydroxy acid. It is naturally found in milk. It also serves as a very effective chemical exfoliant. However, due to its larger molecular structure, it does not penetrate as deeply as other acids. This makes it's effect milder on the skin and thus more suitable for those with sensitive skin than glycolic acid.

    How to use Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are available in several skincare formulas such as lotions, face washes and toners. It is important to check the product labels to make sure the AHA strength is not more than 10% to avoid skin irritation. It is also recommended that AHA products be used at night time as the acid is known to increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays. Still, it is very important to always wear an effective sunscreen anytime you're stepping out during the day once you incorporate AHAs into your skincare routine.

As a beginner, it is best to start by using AHAs just once or twice a week. As your skin gets used to the acid, you can gradually increase the frequency of use to daily or every other day. It's perfectly normal for your AHA product to cause a slight tingling sensation on your skin. However, if it feels more like a burning sensation, rinse it off immediately and stop using the product right away.

ALL ABOUT BETA HYDROXY ACIDS (BHAs)

Beta Hydroxy Acids are oil-soluble acids. They are also chemical exfoliants. But unlike AHAs, they can penetrate deeper into the skin to help shed off dead skin cells and get rid of excess sebum. BHAs are most suitable for oily skin types. The most common and preferred type of BHA in the beauty industry is salicylic acid. 

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is produced from the bark of the white willow tree, but is mostly produced in the laboratory these days. Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin by loosening the bond that holds skin cells together. This process helps slough out dead or dull skin to reveal the fresher and brighter skin underneath. Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble acid, meaning it can efficiently penetrate the skin's pores. It is most suitable for oily and acne prone skin types due to its ability to control excessive oil production. 

How to use BHAs

BHAs can be found in moisturizers, serums, toners and cleansers. It is important to always  follow the instructions on the particular BHA product for best results. A patch test can help determine the sensitivity of your skin to a particular BHA product. Simply rub a small amount of the product on your wrist or behind the ear and be on the lookout for any sign of irritation or redness over the next 24 hours. If there is none, you can go ahead to use it on your body. BHAs are very gentle on the skin. Although they don't increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays as much as AHAs, it is still important to use a good sunscreen each time you use it to give your skin some protection. 

Takeaway on Exfoliation

Incorporating exfoliation into your skincare is a serious gamechanger when it is done right. And the benefits are numerous. Whatever exfoliation method you choose to follow (mechanical or chemical), just stick to its simple rules and safety precautions, and you'll be well on your way to a super gorgeous and radiant complexion in no time. 

Happy exfoliating!